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Beginning June 2008, the Poon Hill trek
Geplaatst op Friday 25 July @ 06:24:14 GMT+1
Onderwerp: Around the world in 8 years
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 Did the 'Poon Hill' trek, a five day walk, part of the Anapurna trek. The highlight should be a visit to Poon Hill, with stunning sights across wide mountain ranges, white peeks and cclear blue skies.
The walk was a bit more difficult then expected, which was not so nice, but I finished it ahead of scedule.
This is a automatically translated story by google Translate, so some grammer might be a bit funny.
On June 9 started my Poon Hill 'walk'. I had hired a local guide, a certain Tika Pariyer. Official guide diploma, wife and 4 children, all in order. Had naturally sought out hundreds of walks in advance, but the Poon Hill trek was not too heavy, was 5 days with the possibility of one or two days extension. Poon Hill is one of the busiest places in this area because you have a magnificent view over the Anapurna range of mountains. The course is part of the Anapurna trek (which is 17 days), and that is probably the most popular trek in the world.
Because now the off-season was that it would not be so busy, but there was a chance at rain. That I had to take for a fact and with the right clothes rain would not be such a problem it seemed to me.
Had the past week been walking and exercise not entirely unprepared for that mountain, my physical condition is really not the super. That is the result of too much behind the steering wheel, eating too many sweets, too much beer and too little movement. Well, I am also not super nurd, so I thought with some daywalks everything waqs pretty well prepared. On one of these daytrips there, from Sarangkot to down I was (for the second time in my life) attacked by a dog, it was close I had almost a good set of teeth in my leg.
At 7 o'clock that morning was Tika at the door. His son was also accompanying us. Het would also be trekking guide and he had asked whether it was ok that he went as well. Seemed a nice lad, so no problem. My car safely parked in the garden of a guesthouse we went to the bus station with a taxi. With the bus to Naya Pule, about a half hour of Pokhara removed. The bus was one of them 'I stop for each side raod, for each flie and for everything and everyone.
The road to Nayapul was spectacular at a given moment with a beautiful view of Pokhara and the lake.
The weather was good, the mood as wel, so hoppa, half 10 exit the bus. After a cupper and some fried bread… start walking. The walk started through Nayapul,we were walking on narrow paths, say 1 a 2 metre wide. The start went through a valley, up slowly and was nice to walk.
Across bridges and small paths
Very occasionally we saw some foreigners, who usually had a Sherpa with him who carried their luggage, and a guide. I carried my own luggage. Had it minimized but it was still 10 kilos or so.
Met a Korean, in the middle of the mountains, healthy air, but still she wore a dustcap on her mouth. Silly.
Along the path many inns (take that with a grain of salt) and restaurants. All restaurants in this whole area have the same menu, and the same, quite expensive, prices. This is done to curb competition and to create a local form of income. In itself nothing wrong with that. An example, a plate of Dal-bat (vegetarian dish, plate with rice, peas and usually some veggies .. and free refills) expense over 210 rupees (2.10 euros, elsewhere between 60 and 100 rupees) , Macaroni or spaghetti plate around two euros, breakfast also around that price. Lxury goods much more expensive cola, beer or toilet paper, and that is maybe not as crazy yet.
The path was well maintained, difficult in places, and made the local ways, with steps, and except that the road almost continuously went up it was pleasant walk. We passed beautiful waterfalls and villages. The son of Tika, (his name Anil and 14 years old) was like a mountain goat and always ran far ahead. It was his first trek so he was curious about everything. The land went up more steeply and the number of steps were growing to almost the only steps were. I had the most difficulty with these steps, and I was always up last, where Tika and his son sat a long time to wait.
Steps and steps
In itself not all that bad. But I really felt that if you do finally overcome the series of steps, there is around the corner again more with a series of steps begins, often even longer and steeper than the previous series.
At twelve hours stopped for lunch. That I needed because I had already felt pain in the legs. First some tea drunk, then a mix of sour milk buffalo with clarified butter. Tasted like Lassi, a kind of buttermilk so. If lunch course the eternal Dal-bat, but that fills your stomach fine. If you see what's these Nepali's eat, entire mountains with rice. I would be so full..After an hour I was again significantly refurbished and I could continue without further trouble.
Because I had no idea how far we had to go and what direction it was time to inform with Tika, who with his hand pointed… there we should go, it will be easier from now. Take it easy, do not hurry. At one point we were bottom of a high mountain. Yes Tika points.. we should go there. That is Uleri, and we sleep there tonight. He pointed so high that I asked what pe ment, and he says…. 'There, just in the clouds. "My courage fell in my shoes, Jesus, that was a climb of one kilometre or so, almost up strait. And it was as i expected, the whole road steep steps.
and more steps
Those steps are made with locally found stones and hand layed, supplemented by things that are already there like rocks, roots of trees or large boulders. Hence the road is not even. Each step is different, every step requires careful studie. One is wide, the other narrow, the following state diagonally, then there is no step , etc. Well so careful, otherwise you just lying flat down on your face, and that was the last that I wanted. The steps are also made for Napali size 38 and not for western size 45, so you had your feet again often oblique continue to have a good grip. The climb lasted and lasted, my breaks were getting more frequent. I sweat like a leaky colander and cursed in myself, why had I done this to myself?
I have seen enough steps for all my life
Small bonus feature is that this path is also supply route for all goods, which are used here. So things such as flour, sugar, oil, all the tourist things like snickers, toilet paper, etc were transported on this route. That goes with the so-called donkey bell-train. Ythe locals crossed horses with donkeys. This' honkeys' are loaded with goods, a bell hung around the neck and then in groups of 15 or 20 honkeys chased up the mountain. A supervisor keeps pace, and ensures that the animals go through and not stop with any grass seen. You hear that caravans of beasts already arriving by far the thing-dang-dongle of those honkey bells, a nice sound and also fun to see. Less fun is that the whole bunch of beasts, are full of shit and urine, which ofcourse they drop in the middle of the path. That shit itself attrackst hurdles with flies and that makes it, not really pleasant. Besides the need to concentrate on where you put your feet , you would also take care of the shit in the holes, and if you walk too close to a pile a cloud of flies rises up around you.
Shit animals
I cursed myself (internally), i cursed the walk, i cursed myself, the mountains, the horses and everything and everyone. Which idiot will find it fun to drag your own up a mountain, to yourself torturers. You do not have time to enjoy the beautiful nature, you concentrate on your breathing (in my case like a steam-train), the steps, the shit, road and other things you have no time for nice nature ). I promised on the spot, never again to be lured by beautiful stories, by guides who say… heck, it's not heavy, and by other tourists who have these nice stories (but probably also have thought that they never would do it again).
Panting, sweating, with painful feet, sore knees and a mood as a dead bird I arrived at 5 pm in Ulleri. That was a village of 5 houses and 10 geusthouses, pasted against the mountain. Tika, my guide, had promised me a hot shower and a beautiful hotel. It was a cold shower (very cold) and a moderate bed in a wooden hut. Well hut, tey had put up wooden walls to create rooms on the top floor by placing plywood walls. Would not surprise me if the duplex was so thin it was, every movement of my neighbors was audible.
The neighbors, however, was one couple from New Zealand, very nice. Have a long talk with them later, and after a dinner of spaghetti I fell in an unconscious state of sleep.
Have calculated that 1000 metres risen today. If I supposed to think that every step approximately 10 cm rises you can calculate that I've taken steps 10,000 today. 10,000 steps, Jesus, just at the thought I was already tired.
The next morning early it rained. This was to 7 pm on order from my window the next spectacle to show:
Not a bad view from my bed
Not badt anyway? Would it still be worth all the misery?
The second day was not much better than the first. After a breakfast of Tibetan bread (delicious fresh baked kind donut-like bread) again a hard day ahead. Even today, there was an increase of 1000 meters, only what was more gradual. There were even occasional straights between the steps but I am also that day stairs champion. That condition had I not revealed. The New Zealanders went away half hours later and arived at 10:30 in to the next village, I arrived at 14:00 hours. Have walked alone long time because my guide and son were at half past 12 already hungry, I absolutely do not. Because they are much faster than I decided I (with considerable reluctance on the guide) to continue and they could overtake me again. That they did, just before Gorepani, the place at the foot of Poon Hill. It was so nice walk by yourself, no sound but that of nature, so birds and the dripping of the trees (it was very humid).
Alone through the woods
Also Gorepani was clearly for the tourists, filled with guesthouses and restaurants, Tibet style. In other words, everything is wet, everything dark, everything smells. A heating pot (read old oildrum) in the central dining room, smoke leaking from the pipes, the rest an the building with bo heating. Super thin walls, drafty windows. All of wood, one flame and everything would burn in no time. So is the snow-view lodge. But, they made the best macaroni that I had eaten in months.
From Gorepani would be a magnificent view of the Nilgiri and Anapurna south to see. Low cloud cover prevented any sight. After a few hours quite boring (but devoted to learning the card game toepen to Anil) and a delicious pot of macaroni go to sleep early. Sooner since the goal was Poon Hill at sun rise to go. Poon Hill was still walking 45 minutes and sunrise was at 6 hours, which ment wake up at 4:45, for at 5 a.m. away. And do you that for your fun. Had with Tika agreed that if it would rain or very cloudy, we would not would go and he would not wake me.
At 4:45 a,m, it rained big time. The water bashed on the tin roof and made a noise that everyone had to wake up. Unfortunately also Tika 4:46 to tell me that it rained (duhhhh) and that we should not climb to the top. The luck was on my side, because this was the Poon Hill haul, and the main reason to come here is to Poon Hill to climb and the sunrise over the Himalayas to see.
At 8 o'clock departed. God understood that to give me so much misery was not very clever. The sky cleared and when we were on the opposite hill to Poon Hill (which was also equally high), it was clear. But only a very short time , I mean 15 minutes or so. Quick enjoyed all that scenery, photos shot, all the poses.
Quickly take some photo's before the clouds come in
I expected at the top an even more beautiful sight but in reaching the summit 20 minutes later was all in a dense cloud. The people who were later departed (a German girl with a friend Bengal) and a bunch of old women, have seen nothing.
Misty forests instead of nice view
Coming back to that word 'old women'. That sounds a bit degenerative but that is not meant, because for those women I admire. They were Canadian women of around 65 and 70 years. Not mothers finest, which, I must say, but very nice and super courageous. Those 8'en the whole Anapurna trek walked!. And so there is only one meter by 5500. And pieces that I had difficulty with them as if they were wings had. I hope that at that age I still am so fit, but me realize that same time a lot of my lifestyle must change.
That day (number 3) was mostly down. The goal, Tadapani, was 500 meters lower and the pass, which is now no longer 'tiled' was claimed by rhododendrons forests, along deep chasms and especially through muddy paths. This was more my kind of trek. Some disadvantage were the leeches. For one reason or another sat in this very much part of this festering and I had (and others) to stop every 5 a 10-minute stop to the leeches from your shoes to scraping or picking. If you wait longer they creep up (and they do it fast) and arrive at your legs or, even worse, and even higher than sucking. They are strange beasts who, if they see a prey / hear or smell, and stand upright like a victim antenna direction. Very quickly than they can from that direction 'creep' in a sort of upright snake movement. Despite that it was a great walking day with at the end a steep down and steep back up. That was sweating. Upon arrival in Tadapani Tika chose a guesthouse. This was Tibetten style, damp, dirty and when I first time in the shower slipped literally on the leeches, there is no towel for the guests the promised hot water after 1 minute was already finished, I have had enough of the place . I had the impression that Tika chose the guesthouse because his girlfriend was there or so, and not because it was so good. In consultation joined another guesthouse. Here, too much maggots on the ground (which came this season every night to walk-eum ..?, Creating a bed of maggots in the morning. Yet there were many other foreigners in this guesthouse. It was therefore a cozy evening with the New Zealand Couple (Fiona and Andy), the German and Bengali, the old women 4. It was strange that when the hostess asked our attention and told that some Nepalese women would sing to raise money for one or the other, the dining room in no time was empty. Haha, it seemed all Dutchmen.
It was the next day wake up again by the rain. Once again it cleared and after breakfast once a magnificent view of the Machapuchhre (sometimes referred to fishtail because of his two points) and the south-Anapurna.
Was it worth the steps?
The fourth day was purely down. In the beginning yet again a beautiful forest paths. Forest trees of rhododendrons. Once again the filled with leeches and was often stop to remove them. It had violently rained the previous night, many of the paths were turned into mud paths or streams. It was an art to keep your feet dry.
Because of heavy rain it was sometimes difficult walking
My newly purchased Chinese shoes proved to be good waterproof. As we came down it became also warmer. The leeches disappeared and at 12 midday already we arrived in Gandruk. In consultation we decided not to lunch here but just by bumping into Siaulybazar, two hours away. Since we would have lunch there and if we still had enough power a day earlier in Pokhara to come. That piece turned out to benee to Siaulybazaar all steps to comply, so this time downwards. My knees recieved some stress and it was not pleasant walk again.
It gets to you......
Halfway there was suddenly a huge landslides. That clearly had just taken place, probably last night by the heavy rains.
Half the mountain had come down
The path continued on the other side
As far as we could see there were two possibilities. Or through the wild river of mud and water, or back. In the latter had no meaning so it was to be a suicide crossing. My life flashed in fornt of my (it was a short film) and With the help of two ramshackle trunks succeeded in getting to the other side.
With danger for own life.
We just walked away from the swirling river when with a thundering noise another piece of the mountain came down on the spot where a few minutes ago we had been. My angel, I must once again thank. walked to the bazaar within 2 hours.
The lunch of course, Dal-bat went well and after another two hours walking, I was back at the start point: Nayapul. Long ago that I was so tired physical, especially because the last two hundred meters almost went up straight. .
Looking back afterwards. Would I do it again? No. I love walking, but 10,000 steps a day is not fun. Am I glad that I've done it?. Yes, because I know now what I am talking about when I speak about the Anapurna haul. I think it's good for my body. The worst thing that I found a bunch of 70 year old ladies fitter at the place of destination than I did, while they have 4 times as far as I walked, and probably 4 times as heavy.
Also striking was behind me that if I went to another group (who always went faster), the foreigners ran as if their lives depended on it. Looking to nature, stop for a nice view, a special plant study or so, it seemed they did not. enjoy nature, so why they walked here?.
My advice to others. Would you climb, then certainly this or a long haul. Do not take a guide but a Sherpa guide / porter who once before walked all the way. A guide is not as necessary, these are not so informative little (exceptions). That way you have someone carry you baggage the steep slope and walk your own task much easier and can also show the way if necessary (but the roadmap shows itself). You thereby save you a lot of costs, and that you can then spend this on a poor begger or tasty beer. aND.., you have the time, the distance between the villages is easy to do, enjoy nature and see it not as a contest.
After a daY rEst was it to Kathmandu. Did yet discovery that my guide had my water filter broken. The ceramic filter, a kind of stone matter, was in a thousand pieces. I suspect that he had dropped it , without telling. Serious because now I can no more water filter and that I still find very enjoyable because I trust the Asian water for no cents.
Took this time my bike back to Kathmandu, so I could visit the embassy and I was not dependent on Taxis, which cheat you consistently. But in Kathmandu, I was received by Leo, who already was two weeks there, to hunt for a possibility to climb the Everest. I think an impossible task, but he have the courage.
The first day looking for a new water filter. There are at least 300 'trekking shops in Kathmandu, but there are 295 of selling only the usual (imitation) north-face coats and other junk you don't really need. Finding the right store was not easy. Found some water filters here and there, but they were all used. Probably who were somewhere up the mountain, and take them back to Europe was not so desirable that they had exchanged. 99.9% of there were a wretched, dirty, damaged, badly treated or too small for my intention. After a long walk and searching, I found Holy Land, a trekking shop who had knowledge of the facts and a katadyne water filter. It was not what I wanted, but I had it, better then nothing.
Next day at the Embassy of Pakistan. The girl still recognized me (after what her memory to have helped) and assured me that she would do her best my visa as soon as possible to settle but that it really would be cost three days. Shit, since I had not anticipated. Still three days in Kathmandu, since I had nothing to do. Solution, kiss-up, be nice and try to make the process go a little faster. I also had not the right photograph me, and they was also only accepting money in Dollars (stupid of them). I promised the next day to come back to the photo and money, as they tried to tomorrow ready to have my visa. After this I get a meeting from 3 minutes with the consul, we discussed more about football than about my trip.
For the time to kill went a couple of times with May (a fun and spontaneous girl from England, but originally from Malaysian descent) and Leo spent. What to eat, drink, shopping, eating, drinking, you understand it. Was very nice, May proved to be a very cheerful girl with her eternal smile that everybody got. She worked in a child / orphan house, but in a week she would go back to England.
A sidestep, because I have to get this of mu chest. I've already written about all those kids homes in Pokhara and Kathmandu. There are no pair, but dozens, and I always have a bad feeling about. The number is so great that there MUST be something wrong both with the Nepalese society that see children as a disposable product, if all those homes, 95% owned and managed by foreigners. That some children are abused, of thsat you can be sure, but that happens in the west as well. No, there was something else the matter and I wanted very much like inventing.
During my discussions with May the light fired. Look, these kids almost all homes have sponsors. There is actively sought by (unsuspecting) Western tourists to sponsor a child or some money to give to the children home. Everywhere you see here signs with phrases such as…. Xxx children-home, come and visit us… help the children. Sure, there must stand .. Help the owner. Because what, a child can be sponsored many times (and that money is all off the record) and therefore more money in the till than the tourists suspects. It also shows that selling a child to an adoption agency, thousands of dollars on supplies. Bingo thats it. Childeren homes are simply commercial establishments. Over the head of the kids is simply lots of earned money.
Please note, I am sure there are some honest places without any ulterior motives, but that in Pokhara alone, nearly 60 of these homes, what do you think……??
Well, the next day back to the ambassy of Pakistan with my money and photo and actually, my Visa was ready. In 24 hours hence. I was very happy.
After another evening with May and Leo and many beer back to Pokhara. In the bus this time for the Nepali majority. That meant that there must be tons of time stopped for [piss-break. I never understand that, some people are basically three times urination.
After a week here (i is waiting for a UPS shipment from NL) I go west direction.
The European Football Championships is underway, and the Netherlands does (so far) is still very good. Here and there you can watch the matches, but by the time that often in the middle of the night. So far fetched I do not, so I will do my bit in a different way to bear, then the following photos……
Nepal supports Oranje
remains for me a Nepali saying… Bye Bye, everybody die….
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